Before you buy a single plant, spend a week watching the strip of ground either side of your path. Most garden paths create a microclimate that is drier, more compacted and more exposed than the borders nearby. Rain runs off hard surfaces and drains sideways, foot traffic presses the soil down, and the plants themselves have to cope with brushing, scuffing and the occasional stray wheelbarrow.
Check three things: how many hours of sun the strip receives, whether the soil stays damp after rain, and how wide your planting space actually is. A narrow path with a 30cm strip will only take low, well-behaved plants. A generous 60cm edge can carry small shrubs and taller perennials without crowding the walkway. In heavy clay, fork in grit and garden compost before planting; on sandy soil, compost alone will hold moisture far better. Getting this right matters more than any plant choice you make afterwards.
These are the workhorses of a path edge. They knit together quickly, suppress weeds and forgive the odd careless step, though none will survive being walked on daily.
Plant in staggered groups rather than regimented lines. A path edge that repeats the same plant every metre or so looks deliberate; a random scattering looks neglected.
Herbs earn their place along a path because you brush past them constantly, and that contact releases oils. Thyme, oregano, marjoram and summer savory all thrive in the dry, sunny conditions a path edge provides, and they need little feeding. Rosemary works well as a low hedge along a south-facing walk, and lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is unbeatable for the same job, provided the soil drains freely — plant it on a ridge of grit if your ground is heavy.
Chives make a tidy, edible edging with purple pom-pom flowers in late spring. Mint is best kept in sunk pots, or it will march across the path within a season. Sage and fennel are taller, so site them at the back of a wide border rather than right at the edge, where they will flop.
Shrubs give a path rhythm. Use them sparingly — one every two or three metres — and clip them to keep the route clear. Leave at least 45cm between a shrub's mature spread and the path surface so you are not squeezing past wet foliage in November.
Autumn is the best time to plant, while the soil is still warm and rain is reliable. Set plants slightly proud of the surrounding soil so that water does not pool around the crown, then firm gently and water well. Mulch with 5cm of bark or gravel, keeping it clear of stems.
For the first summer, water thoroughly once a week rather than little and often — this encourages roots downwards. After that, most of the plants listed here will manage on rainfall alone, though herbs in a rain shadow may need help in a dry July. Cut back spent flower stems in autumn, and give lavender and hebe a light trim after flowering, never cutting into old, leafless wood.
A well-planted path should offer something in every month. In spring, look to primroses, violets and aubrieta for early colour. Summer belongs to geraniums, catmint and lavender, with alchemilla's chartreuse froth filling the gaps. In autumn, sedum heads fade to russet and heuchera foliage deepens, while cyclamen coum opens its first flowers in late winter alongside snowdrops and hellebores.
The trick is to layer, not line up: a low carpet at the very edge, mid-height perennials behind, and a few clipped shrubs behind those. Get that structure right and your path becomes a journey rather than a route — something you wander along slowly, noticing what has opened since yesterday.